Konica Hexar AF + Kodak TriX 400 @ 6400 + Ilford ID-11

Konica Hexar AF

Kodak TriX 400@6400
Ilford ID-11
25 minutes.
Agitated for the first ten seconds and ten seconds more at half-time.





Stewie is always under the spotlight!



  1. Jonathan said:

    What program/scanner do you use to scan your film? Your scans always look so smooth.

    • Jonathan, I always use a Canon 9000F at 2400 DPI 1:1.
      I turn of all the “modes”, landscape, portraits, etc… and also all the sharpness and other effects.
      Then I open up the images in Photoshop, clean them the best I can (I have a pathological thing with dust and hairs, personal problem) and that’s it. If the scan is too far from what I see in the negative I adjust brightness and contrast.

      I “convert” them to 300 DPI and save a 72 PDI jpg version (best quality compression) for the blog.

      Please excuse my terrible English.

  2. iamamro said:

    Is this recipe worth trying for my first home developed film? I want to develop my own because the costs of lab developing are so high here now. (In Britain).


    PS love the Konica Hexar AF – my favourite one I think.

    • I understand your concern about the costs and, on top of reducing costs, home developing has a lot of advantages like, you control your film all the way through the process. Different developers will give you different results and that can help in the creative process. You enhance grain or contrast or not to.

      Yes, do take that step!

      Regarding your question… well… 🙂
      It’s a pretty extreme push up for the first time but, what the hell, why not!
      Yes, this recipe is stable.
      ID-11, 1+1, 25 minutes. Agitate for the first ten seconds and ten more at half time.

      Using the Adox APH 09, a Rodinal “son”, will give you “thicker” negatives and the grain will be more aggressive.
      Id-11 will do the job nicely.

      Look at the Adox results:

      And now look at the ID-11 results:

      As I said, it’s a pretty extreme push up and the results can also be disappointing.
      Using ID-11 you will be pretty safe however, don’t give up if it does not turn out the way you think it will.
      Using film and chemicals surprises always happen. 🙂

      • iamamro said:

        Thanks for the advice. I think I’ll take a conventional route (non push) and try the ID-11.

        Thank you again!

      • Nothing to thank me for my friend.
        Using TriX with ID-11, you can go as far as 1600 ISO and I’m sure you will like the results.
        3200 and 6400 are indeed more tricky.

      • iamamro said:

        You’re very kind. Thank you for the advice.

  3. Mark said:

    Excellent images as usual. I like the dynamic and composition of the third one with the newspaper on the right.

    I’ve just tried some Kodak Tri-X 400 in my Nikon FE. Not used it before.

    • Thank you very much Mark. However the success rate of pushing 400 to 6400 is still very low. I mean… 7, 8, okay, 10 pictures out of 36.

      TriX is a long, long time favorite. Very flexible for pushing and it always delivers excellent results.

  4. Now THAT is a pushed Tri-X! And with excellent results. Well done.

    • Thank you Andrea but the success rate of such a pushing is still very low. I mean, out of 36, I can use… 20, 25 images, the rest are just a black “stain” 🙂

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